Shadow the Hedgehog

 

Materials:

 WW yarn in black, beige/tan (I used Red Heart "Aran"), white, red, and a bit of gold.

 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook

 Yarn Needle

 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)

 Scissors

 Felt in White and Black

Notes:

  Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out.

  The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.

  I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.

  If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Head (using black):

1: 6 sc in MR (6)

2: inc in each stitch (12)

3: 1 sc, inc (18)

4: 2 sc, inc (24)

5: 3 sc, inc (30)

6: 4 sc, inc (36)

7-14: sc in each (36)

15: 4 sc, dec (30)

16: 3 sc, dec (24)

17: 2 sc, dec (18)

18: 1 sc, dec (12)

19: dec in each (6)

F/O and weave in tail end.

Mouth (using tan):

1: ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook & next 9 stitches (10) ch 1, turn

2: hdc inc, hdc in next 9, hdc inc (12) ch 1, turn

3: sc in each (12) ch 1, turn

4: (hdc dec) x2, hdc in 4, (hdc dec) x2 (8)

Sc around entire piece and F/O with long tail for sewing.

Nose (using black):

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: sc in each (4)

F/O with long tail for sewing

Sew mouth to head. Cut eyes out of white, red, and black felt, using pictures as reference. Sew nose to top of mouth. Crochet around the white felt of eyes with black to create an eyebrow effect. Embroider frowny face with black yarn.

Ears (make 2, using black):

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: 1 sc, inc (6)

3: 1 sc, inc (9)

4: sc in each (9)

F/O with tail for sewing

Inner ear (make 2, using tan):

1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 stitches. Ch 1, turn.

2: dec, sc *Don't ch 1, turn**

3: dec

F/O with tail to sew.

Sew inner ear to black ear. Sew black ears to top of head.

Center headpiece/spike (using black):

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: inc (8)

3: 1 sc, inc (12)

4-7: sc in each (12)

8: 1 sc, inc (18)

9-11: sc in each (18)

Ch 1, turn

12: hdc in 6 stitches. ch 1, turn (6)

13: hdc in 6 stitches.

F/O with tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

Side spikes (make 4, using black):

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: inc (8)

3-5: sc in each (8)

6: 1 sc, inc (12)

7-9: sc in each (12)

Ch 1, turn

10: sc in 6 (6)

F/O. Leave tail for sewing.

**For bottom 2 spikes, don't do row 10**

Back head spike (using black):

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: inc (8)

3-4: sc in each (8)

5: 1 sc, inc (12)

6-7: sc in each (12)

8: 1 sc, inc (18)

9-10: sc in each

F/O with tail for sewing.

Sew spikes to head. I sewed them as I was making them, which made it easy to identify which was which. I used red felt for the stripes on his spikes.

Feet (make 2, starting with red):

1: 5 in MR (5)

2: inc (10)

Change color to white

3: in BLO, sc in each (10)

4: (dec) x2, sc in remaining stitches (8)

5: sc in each (8)

5.5: change color to red (do NOT F/O white), sc in 3 in FLO, ch 1 turn, sc in 3 red stitches. F/O and tie off red ends.

Using white,

6: sc in BLO of 3 and both loops of remaining white stitches (8)

Change color to black,

7-10: sc in each (8)

F/O first leg.

For second leg:

11: sc in 1 stitch, ch 1, attach other leg with a sc, sc in next 7 stitches, sc in back of chain you made, sc in remaining 7 stitches (18)

12: sc in 6, inc in next stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, inc in next stitch, sc in remaining 4 (20; increasing on hips)

13: sc in 12, (inc) x4, sc in 4 stitches (24; increasing on belly section)

14-21: sc in each (24)

22: 2 sc, dec (18)

F/O with long tail for sewing to head later.

Arms (make 2, using white):

1: 5 in MR (5)

2: inc (10)

3-4: sc in each (10)

Ch 3, sc in 2, sc to circle (this is the thumb)

5: dec in each (5)

**Stuff now!**

6: sc in each (5)

[Change to black]

7-10: sc in each (5)

F/O with tail for sewing.

Sew arms to top of body, making sure thumbs are facing the correct way when doing so. 

Shoulder spikes (make 2, using black):

1: 4 sc in MR (4)

2: sc in each (4)

3: inc (8)

4-5: sc in each (8)

F/O leaving tail for sewing. Sew to back behind arms.

Tail (using black):

Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, sc in remaining 3.

F/O, sew to back of body.

Sew head to body and shoulder spikes behind the shoulders. Add details as preferred. I used red felt for the stripes on his head spikes, and crocheted a triangle and brushed out some yarn for his chest fluff.

Arm rings (make 2, using gold)

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 9 (10)

Sc in each (10) F/O

Put around arm and sew ends together.

Ankle rings (make 2, using gold)

Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 13 (14) F/O

Put around ankle and sew ends together. Add a few tacking stitches to the foot if you desire to keep the ring from slipping off the shoe.

You are all done! Enjoy your Shadow~

Sonic The Hedgehog

Materials:

 WW yarn in blue, beige/tan (I used Red Heart "Aran"), white, red, and a bit of black

 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook

 Yarn Needle

 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)

 Scissors

 Felt in White and Black

Notes:

  Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out.

  The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.

  I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.

  If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Mini BTS ARMY ver 3 lightstick keychain

 

Following the BINI lightstick, I decided to make my favorite BTS lightstick (and the first I ever owned), version 3!

Materials:

G hook (4.25 mm)

Scissors

Yarn needle

WW yarn in (sparkly) white, black, and red

Polyester fiberfill

Keyring

 

Notes:

• Gauge isn't that important, just so long as your stitches are tight so that the stuffing won't show or fall out.

• The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
• I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
• If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Most people I have tried to teach the Magic Ring to throw their crochet hooks and yarn on the floor in a huffy, but I myself find it fairly easy depending on how many stitches are in it. If you'd like to learn how to make one I found THIS LINK very helpful. The only person I've had success with teaching is my sister. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

 

I used the following terms in this pattern: sc (single crochet), F/O (fasten off), MR (Magic Ring), inc (2 sc in next sc), and dec (decrease over next two stitches).

Pattern

Lightstick

(start with white or "bulb" color)

1: 6 sc in MR (6)

2: inc in each (12)

3: 1 sc, inc around (18)

4: 2 sc, inc around (24)

5: 3 sc, inc around (30)

6: 4 sc, inc around (36)

7-10: sc in each (36)

11: 4 sc, dec around (30)

12: 3 sc, dec around (24)

13: 2 sc, dec around (18)

*change color to handle color, in this case blue*

14: 1 sc, dec around (12)

15-25: sc in each (12)

26: 2 sc, dec around (9)

27: 1 sc, dec around (6)

F/O

Fuse

*Start with red color*

1: 4 in MR (4)

2: sc in each (4)

*change color to black*

3: 2 sc in each (8)

4: 2 sc in each (16)

F/O with long enough tail to sew.

Sew Fuse to "bulb" of lightstick at an angle. Embroider BTS logo in white onto handle of lightstick. Alternatively, you can use white felt and glue it to the handle.

Mini Kpop Lightstick Keychain

Someone posted a photo of a kpop lightstick on Facebook and asked if anyone had a pattern. Being a huge kpop fan myself, I had to take myself up on the challenge, so I made a pattern for it! It can be altered to make other kpop lightsticks, but so far this is the only one I've made.

Materials:

G hook (4.25 mm)

Scissors

Yarn needle

WW yarn in (sparkly) white and blue

Polyester fiberfill

Keyring

 

Notes:

• Gauge isn't that important, just so long as your stitches are tight so that the stuffing won't show or fall out.

• The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
• I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
• If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Most people I have tried to teach the Magic Ring to throw their crochet hooks and yarn on the floor in a huffy, but I myself find it fairly easy depending on how many stitches are in it. If you'd like to learn how to make one I found THIS LINK very helpful. The only person I've had success with teaching is my sister. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

 

I used the following terms in this pattern: sc (single crochet), ch (chain), F/O (fasten off), MR (Magic Ring), inc (2 sc in next sc), dec (decrease over next two stitches), hdc (half double crochet), and dc (double crochet).

Pattern

(start with white or "bulb" color)

1: 6 sc in MR (6)

2: inc in each (12)

3: 1 sc, inc around (18)

4: 2 sc, inc around (24)

5: 3 sc, inc around (30)

6: 4 sc, inc around (36)

7-10: sc in each (36)

11: 4 sc, dec around (30)

12: 3 sc, dec around (24)

13: 2 sc, dec around (18)

14: 1 sc, dec around (12)

*change color to handle color, in this case blue*

15-25: sc in each (12)

26: 2 sc, dec around (9)

27: 1 sc, dec around (6)

F/O

Flower

(start with white)

1: 5 sc in MR (5)

*change color to blue*

2: 2 sc in each (10)

3: ch 4, hdc in 2nd stitch from hook, 3 dc in next stitch, hdc in last chain stitch, sc in next two stitches

 - Do this 5 times to make 5 "petals"

4: sc in each stitch around

F/O

Sew flower to "bulb" of lightstick. Attach a keyring for portability.

Hope you all enjoy!

Lucario - The Aura Pokemon (modified from other pattern)

*This pattern is not an original pattern by me. This pattern is a list of the changes I made to Bizzy Crochet's Pokémon Lucario pattern, available here.*

Last year I posted the finished pictures of my 4-month project for a friend. As many of you have requested, here are the modifications I made to Bizzy's Lucario, albeit a year late. I have also misplaced my video camera, so unfortunately I do not have any pictures to share. My apologies *bow*

Lucario

Materials:

Worsted Weight yarn (#4) in the colors blue, tan, dark grey, pink, red, and black (I used Red Heart Super Saver Solids Blue, Aran, Charcoal,  ,  Cherry Red, and Black)

Size F crochet hook (3.75 mm or #5)

Size G crochet hook (4.00 mm or #6)

Polyester fiberfill stuffing (I use pillow stuffing ^-^)

Scissors

Yarn needle

 Notes:

Gauge isn't that important, just so long as your stitches are tight so that the stuffing won't show or fall out.

 The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.

 I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if your prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.

 If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. If you'd like to learn how to make one I found THIS LINK very helpful. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

I used the following terms in this pattern: sc (single crochet), ch (chain), F/O (fasten off), MR (Magic Ring), inc (2 sc in one sc), dec (decrease over next two stitches), FLO (front loops only), and BLO (back loops only).

Pattern:

Follow Bizzy's pattern for the Body/Upper Legs, Head, Nose, Arms, Arm Claws, Head Frills/Hair, and Tail.

Ears: using blue,
Rnd 1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in 1, inc in next around (6)
Rnd 3: sc in 2, inc in next around (8)
Rnd 4: sc in each around (8)
Rnd 5: sc in 3, inc in next around (10)
Rnd 6: sc in 4, inc in next around (12)
Rnd 7-9: sc in each around (12)
Rnd 10: sc in 5, inc in next around (14)
Rnd 11: sc in 6, inc in next around (16)
Rnd 12-14: sc in each around (16)
F/O with long enough tail for sewing. Sew to head.


Facial markings: using grey (starting with tip of nose),
Rnd 1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5)
Rnd 2: inc in each around (10)
Rnd 3: sc in each around (10)
Begin working across.
Row 4: ch 1 and turn, sc in 7, ch 1 and turn (7)
Row 5: sc in each, ch 1 and turn (7)
Row 6: inc in first, sc in 5, inc in last, ch 1 and turn (9)
Row 7-8: sc in each across, ch 1 and turn (9)
Row 9: inc in first, sc in 7, inc in last, ch 1 and turn (11)
Row 10-11: sc in each across, ch 1 and turn (11)
Row 12: in BLO, sc in 4, ch 1 and turn (4)

This begins the left side of Lucario's facial mask: Continue chaining 1 and turning your work unless otherwise noted.
Row 13: sc in 3, inc in last (5)
Row 14: inc in first, sc in 2, dec (5)
Row 15-16: sc in each across (5)
Row 17: sc in 4, inc in last (6)
Row 18-19: sc in each across (6)
Row 20: inc in first, sc in 5 (7)
Row 21-23: sc in each across (7)
Row 24: inc in first, sc in 6 (8)
Row 25-27: sc in each across (8)
Row 28: inc in first, sc in 7 (9)
Row 29: sc in 5, ch 1 and turn (5)
Row 30: sc in each across, ch 1 and turn (5)
Row 31: sc in each across and unworked 4 stitches (9)
Row 32-34: sc in each across (9) F/O

Begin right side of facial mask:
Attach yarn to farthest stitch on right and follow above pattern from Row 12 onwards.

Middle stripe:
Ch 1 and turn unless otherwise noted.
Row 1: Join grey yarn to right middle stitch and sc across (3)
Row 2-8: sc in each across (3)
Row 9: sc in 1, dec (2)
Row 10-17: sc in each (2)
Row 18: inc in both stitches (4)
Row 19: inc in first and last stitches (6)
Row 20: inc in first and last stitches (8)
Row 21: inc in first and last stitches (10)
Row 22: inc in first and last stitches (12)
Row 23: inc in first and last stitches (14)
F/O. Sew facial markings to head.


Legs/Feet: (make 2) using grey,
Note: This first leg is the left leg.
Rnd 1: ch 7, sc across, 3 sc in last, sc in opposite side of foundation chain, 2 sc in last st (14)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in 5, 2 sc in next 2 stitches, sc in 5, 2 sc in last st (18)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in 7, 2 sc in next 2 stitches, sc in 7, 2 sc in last st (22)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each around (22)
Rnd 8: [sc in 3, dec] around, sc 1 in last 2 sts (18)
Rnd 9: sc in 2, ch 1 and turn, sc in 9, ch 1 and turn (9)
Rnd 10: sc in 9 and unworked stitches (18) join to last st of ridge
Rnd 11: sc in 8, ch 1 and turn, sc in 9, ch 1 and turn (9)
Rnd 12: repeat rnd 10 (18) join in back loop
Rnd 13: in BLO sc in 9, in FLO sc in 8 (18)
Rnd 14-23: sc in both loops around (18)
Rnd 24: sc in 11, ch 1 and turn, sc in 9, ch 1 and turn (9)
Rnd 25: in BLO sc in 9, in FLO sc in unworked 9 stitches (18) join in ridge
Rnd 26: sc in 8, ch 1 and turn, sc in 9, ch 1 and turn (9)
Rnd 27: [sc in 1, dec] x3, [sc in 1, dec] x3 (12)
Rnd 28: in BLO sc in 6, ch 1 and turn, in FLO sc in 6, ch 1 and turn (6)
Rnd 29: in BLO sc in 6, in FLO sc in unworked 6 (12) join in both loops of ridge
Rnd 30-31: sc in each around (12)

Rnd 32: sc in 1, ch 1 and turn, in BLO sc in 6, ch 1 and turn (6)

Rnd 33: sc in 6, sc in unworked 6 (12) join in ridge

Rnd 34: sc in each (12)

Rnd 35: sc in 6, ch 1 and turn, sc in 6, ch 1 and turn (6)

Rnd 36: sc in 6, sc in unworked 6 (12) join in ridge

F/O.

When working on right leg/foot you must sc in 1 before starting round 28. This will make the right leg tilt to the opposite side that the left leg tilts, and makes Lucario stand evenly.

Front stomach fur: (optional) using aran,

Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, [ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and down], sc in same foundation chain, sc in next foundation chain, [ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook and down], sc in same foundation chain, sc in next foundation chain, [ch 3, sc in 2nd chain from hook and down], sc in same foundation chain. F/O. Sew where color change between aran and charcoal on body occurs.

Shoulders: using grey, 

Follow Bizzy's pattern for the shoulder until Rnd 5.

Rnd 5: In both loops sc in each (18)
Rnd 6: in BLO [sc in 1, dec] around (12)
F/O. Stuff and sew open end to body.


Feet pads: (optional) use pink
Small (make 6): sc 5 in Magic Ring, join (5) F/O. These are the toe pads.

Big (make 2):
Rnd 1: sc 6 in Magic Ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each around (12) F/O.

Sew pads to bottom of feet.

Eyes: (make 2) using white,

Rnd 1: sc 6 in Magic Ring (6) pull to close but do not join! ch 1 and turn
Rnd 2: inc in next 2 sts, sl st in 2 sts, inc in last 2 sts (10) do not ch 1 or turn!
Rnd 3: sc along other side edge. F/O.

Embroider red irises and black pupils on whites. Sew to facial mask on head.


I believe those are the only changes I made to Bizzy's amazing pattern. If anything doesn't make sense feel free to comment or send an email and I will see what I can do to help.